Life on a Tuscan Farm

It’s been hot here these last few weeks. Really hot. So hot that most of us have forgotten what it is like to be cold. The pool, I have decided, doesn’t cool me down enough to warrant changing into a bathing suit. It’s just too hot to struggle out of one set of clothes, to struggle into another, before struggling back into the original set. Ugh. Rather, the interns and I (and some guests when we share the secret) have been frequenting a waterfall and swimming hole near Castiglion Che Dio Sol Sa. The water, clear and goose bump-inducingly cold, is the only way to lower body temperature in this incessant heat. Lying back in the cool water, looking up into the green and light speckled forest canopy, is pure meditation. Here, there is no chlorine to wash off and no squeaky inflatable pool toys to disrupt the reverie.

This morning, as we were stacking monstrous woodpiles in anticipation of (gasp) fires and (double gasp) winter, I couldn’t help but think of the inexorable irony of the human condition. Here we were, huffing and puffing and tossing logs bigger than wrestlers’ thighs. We were in the frying pan, preparing for the fire. Sweat drips were flying, armpits were stinking and all we wanted was to dunk our heads under the frigid gushing water at Castiglion. But come November, December, and deep, dark January, when the sun seems to give up before noon, I just know I’ll be wishing for sandals and a sweaty brow.

A presto…

While Erin was working feverishly in the office (baby in one arm, keyboard at the end of another), Gail and I had a mobile meeting in the secret garden. What began as a leisurely stroll soon became a finger pointing bonanza; cut this, pull that, drag those, scrub there! I knew Gail meant business and I couldn’t wait to get started.

Every second Friday at Spannocchia, the interns take part in a group project. All 8 work together (a novelty in itself) to achieve a mammoth task in a relatively short period of time. Last Friday morning, as we stood at the gateway into Il Giardino Segreto, I have to admit I faltered. What had I been thinking? The A3-sized work plan I held in my hand was testament not to my deft lines and fancy Japanese drawing pens, but rather to my stupidity. The secret garden encompasses 5 acres – my sheet of paper encompassed whimsical chartreuse shrubbery and a few coffee rings.

Molly, Garrett, Andrew, Erica, Kerry, Carolyn, Sheela and Jeri pushed by me into the garden. Before long, pennati were flying; huge piles of brambles and weeds were tossed onto tarps and hauled away. The interns chopped and tugged for 8 hours. They sang along to Graceland, cursing the prickly pungitopo between tracks. By elevensies* the over-grown monstrosity that had greeted us at 7am had been tamed. By home time, walls had been cleaned, herbs had been planted and an unknown tonnage of algae had been skimmed off the pond. Che meraviglia! exclaimed Daniela when she saw our work. Bolstered by blisters and by praise, we headed home.

A presto!

*Ginger snaps with nutella and cherries

We’ve all heard of infinity pools, but what about an “infinity table”?? Check this out: Che tavolo!
A presto…

The Cauliflowers have just left.

Confused?

We were too, at first. They arrived at strange hours, in stranger outfits, and crammed themselves into two of Pulcinelli’s seven rooms. Interns were displaced and mattresses materialized. Pig legs were shoved into the pizza oven and an incredibly long table was set out on the lawn. For the entire weekend the villa kitchen resembled Milano Centrale at rush hour, though with a more favorable smell I’ll admit.

Cavolfiori a Merenda share a common goal – to bring exceptional local food to a beautiful table in a spectacular setting. This May holiday weekend, Spannocchia provided the perfect backdrop to a Cavolfiori event. Over two days, close to 100 guests enjoyed the very best local ingredients prepared by Luca Vaschetti and a team of passionate young gastronomes. Even a rainy Sunday could not dampen the spirits of the group – they are dedicated not only to their work in the kitchen, but to the patronage of honest food producers and the dissemination of a very important message; that good food is always best-served at a big table.

We hope they’ll return soon.

A presto…

For more information about Cavolfiori a Merenda, see http://www.cavolfioriamerenda.it/

One of the many perks of the butchering season here at Spannocchia are the resulting lunches. There is a lovely tradition in Tuscany of celebrating the process, pig and those who work to bring us our food. The activity of the first day in the transformation room is stopped for about an hour in the middle of the day to grill up ribs and chops for the whole community. Our resident fire-master and garden manager Carmen lights up the big fattoria camino around 11am (using our very own charcoal) so that it will be ready for grilling around noon. Volunteers and staff roast our potatoes and prep big bowls of radicchio to be served along side the star of the meal. Once the aromas of grilled pork and roasted rosemary reach the courtyard, one and all descend upon the kitchen to gather ’round the table, enjoy the meal and compliment our marvelous butchers and farm staff. Yum.

A presto…